China: a world of difference

By Martin Dickens

For a first time international traveller, arriving at Beijing International Airport at 1am was the most daunting experience I had yet encountered.

Beijing, my first port of call, offered a diverse window into contemporary Chinese society, from the elaborate floral displays celebrating ninety years of Communist rule, to the run-down hutongs (alleys) that are home to many citizens. The sheer contrast between the colossal national monuments of the Worker’s Cultural Palace and the Forbidden City with the small, narrow hutongs behind these relics was astounding.

During my time in Beijing, I was also fortunate to visit the Silk Market and the Pearl Market, where I engaged in tense bargaining with the vendors. Not only was this unfamiliar style of shopping a valuable lesson in understanding the Chinese culture and the socioeconomic contexts in which business operates, it also proved a great way of mingling with some locals. During my purchasing negotiations with the many stallholders in these multi-level precincts, I discovered that each person had a unique story to tell. Each vendor shared an interest in not only what I wanted to buy but where I was from and what my national culture was like.

After contending with the fast-paced lifestyle of Beijing, I caught a plane to Xi’an, home of the Terracotta Warriors. Xi’an, a city enclosed by strong and high stone barricades, was an interesting location with many similarities to Beijing. This city lacked the obvious communist monuments displayed in the capital and was geared towards the tourist industry. With a number of advertisements promoting the Terracotta Warriors, it was evident that the city relied heavily on this drawcard for its economic prosperity. Yet hidden behind Xi’an’s mask of consumerism was a spirit unlike anything I have experienced in Australia. I was amazed at the level of patriotism and national pride the citizens of Xi’an, and indeed China, had in these ancient relics. Coming from a nation with a relatively little substantial cultural history, this perception was refreshing as it again demonstrates the tight social bonds between the youth and elderly. As I continued my journey south, my awareness of this sense of pride would increase.

In Guilin, I was welcomed by an array of people lining the streets from the airport as they swept and ensured the general maintenance of the garden areas. This sight is common throughout China, as general cleanliness and maintenance is ensured primarily by elderly citizens. In comparison to Australia also, the sight demonstrated a heightened sense of not only national pride, but an awareness of the impact waste has on the environment. This duty stems largely from the Pollution Charge System introduced in China in 1982, whereby mass polluters have a responsibility to pay for the pollution they generate. The city itself, however, was characterised by views of the large buildings of the central business district, contrasting vividly with the picturesque parks and native vegetation on the mountains surrounding the city. A highlight of the city was the Seven Star Park, which featured numerous natural waterfalls, live monkeys and unique natural vegetation. Although the park was geared towards attracting tourists and boosting the economy, the park implied that the Chinese still possessed an idyllic view of nature. This state of mind was encouraging as a foreigner, given that Mao undertook many projects to industrialise China during the Great Leap Forward from 1958 to 1960.

However, the central attraction of the area was the caves located under the mountain at the centre of the park. The caves featured a light show for tourists, however they demonstrated the obsession China is developing for consumerism. Even in the depths of the cave, petty entrepreneurs had set up stalls selling souvenirs and other items. This sight speaks again to the developing need for entrepreneurialism that developed out of Deng Xiaoping’s leadership and the economic reforms the leader introduced. As a tool for economic modernisation, Deng, between 1978 and 1979, gave five directional talks encouraging Party leaders to use tourism as an option for economic development. Whilst I felt cheated from this environmental experience, I also realise that it is a result of broader economic measures to transform China into a global north country.  Sadly however, this trend would become more noticeable as my trip continued.

I continued on to the semi-rural town of Yangshou, home to approximately 700,000 people. Surrounded by a number of steep mountains and the Li River, the eight nights I spent here were the highlight of the trip. The city itself provided an excellent mix of urban life and rural living. The town offered tourists the opportunity to experience a bamboo boat ride along the river, kayaking, mountain climbing and bike riding, as well as a number of activities associated with rural life including traditional Chinese cooking. One of the most thrilling experiences of the trip took place at the Dragon Water Cave at Yangshou. It is here that tourists have the opportunity to enter natural mud caves and hot springs located at the bottom of the cave. It was an exciting opportunity personally and one that I would encourage other people who are planning to travel to Yangshou to experience.

What I found most interesting about Yangshou, however, was the great sense of community and the strong links maintained both within and between families. This was noticeable on passing the numerous market stalls positioned along the Li River front. The social solidarity surpassed anything I have encountered in Australia, leaving me feeling a previously unknown sense of happiness and fulfilment when wandering the long cobblestone streets of the town.

The final stretch of the tour took us to Hong Kong, a densely populated city that was returned to China from the British in 1997. In comparison to the places we visited in mainland China, I was disappointed in the general atmosphere of Hong Kong. As soon as you enter the city you are automatically exposed to the European influences from its time under British occupation, from the European designed skyscrapers to the European fashion outlets located across Kowloon.

When walking the streets of Hong Kong, I was bombarded by tailors patrolling the streets hoping to sell tailored suits. Throughout my time in Hong Kong, navigating between these hawkers would be a constant struggle - not only did they become irritating given the constant enquiries of how much other tailors offered for their services, but also the need to engage in deep conversation with them regarding your apparel. The concept of personal space in Hong Kong definitely does not exist.  A definite highlight, however, was the night ferry tour on Hong Kong harbour. The main attraction of this ride was the spectacular light show that takes place between the different skyscrapers that line the edges of the water, an event I would recommend to visitors of Hong Kong.

In conclusion, my time in China was a life-changing experience. Being exposed to a different culture has left me with a different take on life and the world in which we live. To tell the truth, I really was not ready to leave China and return to Australia. The vibrancy, sense of community and state of mutual respect each person has for one another differed vastly from my experiences here at home. In addition, the experience defeats the common perception in Australia that China, as a communist state, remains under the stringent totalitarian control. Rather, China’s public philosophy and communist orientation is geared towards economic modernisation, as well as improving the living standards of citizens within the state.

I was struck by the ability of citizens in both urban and regional areas to find happiness from small pleasures, which left me with a sense of enlightenment. This experience has proven that whilst material wealth is gradually becoming important for the Chinese people, the sense of social solidarity through human interaction is far more important when determining a person’s sense of worth. I would encourage all adventurous persons to go to China and experience this ancient and fascinating culture.

Martin Dickens is a second year Bachelor of Arts student at La Trobe University Albury-Wodonga.

Photo by Martin Dickens

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